In this post, I wanted to take you on an adventure into the cold stormy waters of the North Sea. The Farne Islands jut out of the cold waters, just over a mile from the Northumbrian coastline. They are completely secluded and remote, yet these rocks are among the most visited places in Northumberland. You’ll struggle to find a “Best of Northumberland” list that doesn’t include Farne Island tours.
You might be wondering why Farne Island Tours are so popular. Especially if you aren’t familiar with the Farne Islands or Northumberland. It’s hard to imagine who would want to visit a secluded cluster of rocks.
Yet the seclusion and isolation of the Farne Islands why they’re so unique. From the coast they look like little more than rocky outcrops. In reality, over 100,000 seabirds and 6,000 seals live on these tiny islands. Farne Island tours are a great way of getting closer to these incredible animals. That’s not to mention some of the dramatic chapters of Northumbrian history that happened here.
Table of Contents
Farne Island Tours – Exploring the hidden gems of Northumberland
Starting your day in Seahouses.
To get to the Farne Islands, your first port of call is Seahouses. Seahouses was once a thriving Northumbrian fishing village. Today the town more commonly used as the gateway to the Farne Islands. There’s still a small fleet of fishing boats in Seahouses, but most of the town is now devoted to tourism.
Seahouses is on Northumberland Coastal road. You can get there by car or bus. The nearest train stations are Alnmouth or Berwick-Upon-Tweed. I usually travel towards Seahouses from Berwick and I like to hop off the bus at Bamburgh so I can walk the final three miles to Seahouses. The beaches on this stretch are incredible so it’s well worth clambering through the sand dunes and onto the beautiful white sands. You will be rewarded with terrific views towards Lindisfarne and the Farne Islands….not to mention all the friendly dogs; tearing through the sand and loving life!
A Micro-Drama and a Lesson Learned
I’m not going to lie, there was a tiny drama when I arrived at Seahouses to take the pictures for the blog post. I picked up my camera to take my first picture, but as soon as the shutter had clicked, the screen notified me that I’d forgotten an essential piece of equipment.
I was so focused on layering my waterproofs like someone on on a trip to the Amazon, that I’d completely forgotten to pick up a memory card for the camera. After a quick rekey around the shops in Seahouses, I can confirm that SD cards aren’t sold here. I was furious with myself but made the most of my iPhone camera for the rest of the day. The blessing was making a return visit a few weeks later. This might explain which the weather varies so much in my photography in this post.
A Quick Trip To The Pub
I had a little time to spare before the boat trip so I’d found a quiet spot by the fireplace in the Olde Ship Inn. It’s an amazing little pub. The walls are covered in maritime trinkets and ornaments. I had a quick browse while I was waiting for my coffee but I could easily have spent longer. It would be an amazing spot to sit in the winter, reading a book by the fire. In true north-eastern style, there’s a local propping up the bar, drinking his first pint of the day. It’s 11am. (I can say this, I’m from the area).
The fire wasn’t on today as it was July. That didn’t stop a visitor popping their head through the door and declaring they couldn’t possible sit here because the fire was making the room too smoky. Much to the bemused glances of the guests in the bar.
Farne Island Tours with Serenity
I drank my coffee and took the short walk down to the harbour. My tour around the Farne Islands was with Serenity tours. There are a couple of tour providers and different types of Farne Island tours available. I chose the Puffin Tour as it gave me the most time at sea. Not all of the tours let you off the boat and onto the Farne Islands. The tours that allow you to dock are very popular and tend to book up very quickly. So definitely book ahead if you’re keen to step off the boat and onto one of the islands. The puffins weren’t nesting during my visit so I was happy to spend my time at sea without visiting the Inner Farne.
The waters were really calm as the boat sets out of Seahouses harbour. The North Sea can get choppy as they batter against the hard rocks of the Farne Islands, so I was glad to visit while the waters were calm. The still waters created beautiful reflections of the moody skies above us and some amazing views across to Lindisfarne and Bamburgh Castle.
The Farne Islands – Home to 100,000 Nesting Birds
It is estimated that over 100,000 birds live in and around the Farne Islands. So it gets quite busy, especially when the birds are nesting. Of the 100,000 birds, there are up to 24 different species of bird that nest here. Guillemots and puffins are the most common; over 40,000 of each species were counted in 2018. In addition to these species you could also see shags, oyster catchers, cormorants, kittiwakes, terns, seagulls and eider ducks.
The species of birds you see in and around the Farne Islands will differ hugely on when you take your trip. Many of the birds that visit are migratory and are only present at the Farne Islands at certain times. Looking on TripAdvisor, the main complaint on these boat trips is not seeing certain types of bird. So to avoid disappointment I’d recommend looking at which birds are present at different times of year. I’m no bird expert, but I’ve included some hints and tips below.
Meet the Puffins!
The puffins are a huge reason why the Farne island tours are so popular. And it’s not long before I spot them bobbing on the waves just a short distance from the Inner Farne. Puffins spend most of their lives at sea, but come to the Farne Islands each spring to nest in underground burrows. Many of them return to the exact burrow that they were born in .When not nesting, the puffins return to their lives at sea. I caught the tail end of the puffin season on my visit. A few weeks later and I would have missed them completely.
If you want to see the puffins protecting their underground nests, make sure you visit between April and July. You will need a tour that lets you onto the Inner Farne if you want to see them in their burrows.
Kittiwakes
The cliffs where the kittiwakes live are pretty dramatic. You will hear and smell the birds before you see them, but the first sign of the kittiwakes are the white stained the rocks. These rocks are usually black but have been stained by kittiwake poo.
The rocks of Staple Island jut out of the water like rotten teeth. The islands are made out of columns of resistant rock. All of the softer rock has been worn away by the relentless waters of the North Sea. It’s little wonder that so many ships were wrecked on these rocks, which is why there are lighthouses on the Farne Islands. The waters were calm during my visit making it easy to forget how rough the weather can be out here.
The rocks may look bleak but they are a perfect nesting ground for these birds. Kittiwakes cram their nests onto narrow ledges on the cliff face. There’s very little separating the baby birds from falling into the North Sea below. The babies sit on their ledges, shrieking for food, whilst their parents shuttle back and forward to feed them with freshly caught fish.
Kittiwakes are generally, noisy and smelly birds. So multiplying this by the number of birds on the cliffs, you can imagine how fragrant and chaotic the atmosphere is while the kittiwakes are nesting.
I took this trip at the end of this time so most of the kitiwakes were getting ready to leave the nest. But the cliffs were still bustling with bird life. The birds paid little attention to the humans observing them from the boat. The wildlife here seemed well used to visitors.
When I visited again, just two months later, the kittiwakes had gone completely. The white stained cliffs were all that remained of their frantic nesting season.
Farne Island Seal Colonies
I mentioned earlier that over 6,000 seals live in proximity to the Farne Islands. They are one of the few species available on the island throughout the year. The islands are a popular breeding spot for these fascinating marine mammals.
My first glimpse of the Farne Island seals is while we’re out at sea. A solitary seal pops it’s head out of the water; to catch it’s breath and to enquire into the passing humans. It’s clear that these are inquisitive creatures, a thought that is later confirmed by the tour guide speaking on the boat. They genuinely seem just as fascinated by the humans as humans are by the seals.
Later in the trip we see many more seals. This time they are resting on the rugged rocks of Longstone. The tour guide tells us that Grey Seals spend 80% of their lives on land and only 20% in the water. All the while the seals are reclining, looking like holiday makers lounging on the Spanish coast.
Interestingly, seals have very little mobility on land. They rely on the tides to deliver them to a resting spot. They then wait until the next high tide before returning to the water. So although it looks as though they are lazing on the rocks, it’s not really an option for them to move until the tide changes.
Shags & Gannets
There are a few bird species which live on the Farne Island’s throughout the year. You’re likely to see Shags and Gannets on most visits here. Despite this, these are very different birds. Gannets are large, white coloured birds with yellow heads, whereas Shags are slimmer with green-black feathers.
The shags tend to perch on the rugged cliffs whereas the gannets we saw were bobbing for food on the cold, North Sea waters.
A Little History
Longstone is a popular spot with the local wildlife, but it’s also a famous place for other reasons. Longstone lighthouse played a role in one of the UK’s most dramatic sea rescues. The jagged rocks around the Farne Islands have long been hazardous to seafarers. And early on the 7th September 1838, disaster struck during a violent storm. A passenger ship hit the rocks close the Longstone lighthouse with 62 passengers on board.
Quickly working out that the lifeboats wouldn’t reach the wreckage in time, the lighthouse keeper and his daughter rowed into the storm in a small coble (a traditional Northumbrian rowing boat). Together they were able to rescue 9 passengers from the wreckage. Being only 22 at the time, the light house keeper’s daughter, Grace Darling, quickly captured the public’s imagination and became a national hero.
You can find out more about Grace Darling and life at Longstone lighthouse at the dedicated museum in Bamburgh. This is also Grace Darling’s final resting place.
Tours landing on Longstone, including entrance to Longstone Lighthouse are available exclusively though Golden Gate Tours.
There’s also history to discover on the Inner Farne. The island was once home to both St Aidan and St Cuthbert. That’s why there’s a small chapel here called the Chapel of St Cuthbert. The chapel’s origins date back to the 14th century. Remember that you’ll need to be on a trip that docks at the Inner Farne if you’d like to visit St Cuthbert’s chapel. For more on St Aidan and St Cuthbert, I’d recommend a trip to the Priory on Lindisfarne.
Can I explore the Farne Islands by foot?
Yes you can, but not all Farne Island tours allow you to dock so make sure that you’re on the right trip before you leave Seahouses. There are many different types of trip and different ways to see the Farne Islands. Some of the trips specialise in seeing birdlife or spotting seals and won’t allow access onto any of the islands.
There is limited access to the Farne Islands. Only two of them are open to public.
Inner Farne
The most popular island to visit is the Inner Farne. This is the largest Farne Island and is closest to the mainland. There are a few buildings on the Inner Farne including the Farne Island lighthouse and St Cuthbert’s Chapel.
Once you have docked you will need to pay a landing fee to the National Trust. The fee was £12 at the time for writing. This is in addition to the fee you pay for your boat trip so make sure you are able to pay this before leaving Seahouses.
Longstone
A very limited number of trips dock at Longstone Island. These trips offer a guided tour of the island and allow you visit Longstone Lighthouse, the home of Grace Darling. These trips are exclusively available though Golden Gate Boat Trips.
When is the best time to visit the Farne Islands?
There’s no single time that’s best to visit the Farne Island. The wildlife is incredibly diverse here so each season has it’s own distinct flavour. The most popular time to visit would be during the summer as this is when you’ll get the best weather (although it can be pretty cold out there – even during the summer).
- If you’re visiting the Farne Islands to see Puffins and other nesting seabirds, I’d recommend visiting between April and July. Puffins spend most of their lives at sea so if you visit outside this window there may not be any puffins. I’d also recommend taking a tour that docks at the Inner Farne as this will allow you closer access to the Puffins which nest in underground burrows.
- You can see Grey Seals on the Farne Islands around the year. But the best time to visit the seals is from late September through to the end of October. This is their cubbing season and you’ll get a chance to see the adorable seal pups with their fluffy, white fur.
Which is the best boat trip to the Farne Islands?
There are lots of options for visiting the Farne Islands by boat. There’s certainly no shortage of choice. Each boat trip and tour offers something slightly different depending on what you’d like to see. Some of them land on the Farne Islands, while others focus on wildlife and birdwatching. There are even tours for diving if you’re feeling brave or want to get up close and personal with the Farne Island’s seal population.
It’s impossible for me to say which tour is best as I haven’t been on them all. So to help you pick the right tour for you, I’ve listed the main tour operators below. You can pre-book your visit online. This is often needed for the tours that land on the Inner Farne. These trips are very popular.
Alternatively, you can book your tour from Seahouses. The tour operators each have a booth close to the harbour so you can also browse the different tours available from here.
Main Farne Islands Tour Operators
Leaving the Farne Islands – Back on Dry Land
It get’s pretty cold out at the Farne Islands, and after a few hours at sea I was ready for some hearty food. So I headed to Neptune’s in Seahouses, one of the town’s busiest Fish and Chips shops. It’s the perfect way to get warm again, especially with a hot cup of tea. After this, I crossed the road to grab one of the delicious ice creams from Coxon’s.
There aren’t many shops in Seahouses, but there are a couple that specialise in local produce and crafts. I’d recommend having a look around these. There are lots of souvenirs available here.
It’s also worthwhile having a look around the harbour. A lot of the buildings around the harbour used to be fisherman’s cottages. Many of them are now holiday cottages so it’s a great place from which to explore the Northumberland coast. There’s even a working fish smoker close to the harbour, which you will smell before you see. The smell of the smoke in the crisp, sea air is something you can only experience at the British seaside. It instantly transports me back to childhood days spent by the coast.
Farne Island Tours – Thank You For Reading
Thank you for reaching the end of this blog post. I hope you enjoyed hearing more about the Farne Islands. Hopefully reading this has inspired you to plan your own adventure to the Northumberland coast.
If you enjoyed reading this post, I’d recommend these other posts.
- Amazing Things to do in Bamburgh – Including how to find out more about Grace Darling.
- Your Guide to the Best Castles in Northumberland – Northumberland is famous for it’s castles and this post includes the very best of the bunch.
- Kielder Water Lodges – Discover some of the hidden corners of Northumberland on Kielder Water
