In this post, I want to share one of the most scenic walks on the Northumberland coast. It’s also one of my favourites which makes me even more determined to bring this corner of my home country to life. The walk is between the sleepy fishing village of Craster, and Dunstanburgh Castle, one of the most picturesque ruins in the United Kingdom. There’s quite a contrast between village life and the forgotten history in the area, but it’s quintessentially Northumbrian. There aren’t many places in the world where these flavours can fuse together so seamlessly. This is definitely one of them!
So join me on this gentle walk along the Northumbrian coast and discover some dramatic chapters from English history along the way. The Craster to Dunstanburgh Walk is just 1.3 miles each way so it’s perfect if you’re looking to for a gentle stroll along the coastline. And most of it is flat which makes it fairly accessible.
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Walking To Dunstanburgh from Craster
I’d recommend starting your walk from Craster. Being honest, there aren’t many more options to this. There isn’t road access to Dunstanburgh so anyone visiting would need to start from Craster in the South or Beadnell in the north. Craster is much closer and the views from here are amazing so I recommend visiting Dunstanburgh from here.
You can visit Craster by car. There’s a car pack just outside the village which is where most visitors to Dunstanburgh set off from. You can also reach Craster using the buses from Alnwick or Berwick. These run on an hourly basis in the summer months. Be sure to check the weather before you head to Craster as the Northumbrian weather can be temperamental. Also, Dunstanburgh Castle often closes when the weather is bad, particularly when it’s windy. So if you’re looking to visit the castle, it’s best to visit when the weather is good.
Walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh
From the harbour at Craster, you can see the crumbling towers of Dunstanburgh castle to the north. On a sunny day you might also see a trail of fellow walkers heading towards the castle, which will make your journey even easier.
Even without there being other walkers, the walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh is almost fool proof. There is clear signposting along the pathway, and as long as you keep the castle ahead of you, you’ll easily reach the perimeter walls of the castle.
A Dramatic Coastline
It’s a stunning stretch of coast between Craster and Dunstanburgh. Much of the Northumbrian coast is made up of pristine sandy beaches, surrounded by grassy sand dunes. Here the white beaches give way to the hard volcanic rocks of the Whin Sill. When the weather is right, these tough rocks clash with the fierce waters of the North Sea to dramatic effect. The waves thunder against the coast causing the water to explode upwards. It can create a brackish mist which hangs over the coast, adding to the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, which perches over the north sea.
Dunstanburgh Castle – A Spectacular Ruin
There are more castles in Northumberland than any other county in England. This testament to the conflict that Northumberland has witnessed in it’s turbulent history. Despite there being plenty of castles to chose from, Dunstanburgh Castle is one of my top picks. Amongst the ruined castles, it’s probably Northumberland’s best.
There’s much debate over why there’s a castle here. Some have suggested it was to protect the coast from marauding Scots, but the timing and position on the castle suggests this might not be the case. Newer evidence suggests the War of the Roses between Lancashire and Yorkshire is a more likely explanation of Dunstanburgh Castle being here. The castle was witness to two siege events during this period before lying empty for over 500 years.
Falling Into Ruin
500 years of solitude have transformed the grandeur of Dunstanburgh into a dramatic ruin. The castle’s towers have become ragged and scrape against the skyline like gothic spires. It has created a mysterious ruin that is almost magical to behold. It comes as little surprise that the castle held such fascination for the artist J.M.W. Turner or that the castle has become the back drop for tales of Victorian romanticism.
Today, Dunstanburgh Castle is under the care of English Heritage and for a fee you can take a look around the castle ruins. It’s free to English Heritage members to visit. Being one of the biggest castles in Northumberland, the grounds inside the castle are expansive. There’s not a huge amount to see once inside as the castle is a ruin but it’s possible to climb the towers and to take a closer look inside the castle walls.
Be sure to walk around the entire curtain wall of the castle. There are additional points of interest at the Lilburn tower and the Egyncleugh Tower, as well as the dramatic cliff face of gull crag at the northern frontier of the castle walls.
Walking Back to Craster
Once you’ve finished looking around Dunstanburgh Castle, it’s time to head back to Craster. Alternatively you can head north towards Embleton Beach and Beadnell.
Craster Village
You should definitely take some time out in Craster, whether that’s before your walk to Dunstanburgh or after. Despite being only 8 miles away from Alnwick, the twisting and turning roads make Craster feel much further away. This isn’t helped by the fact that there aren’t any shops here, or that there is only one road into, and out of, the village. Even the buses have to do an abrupt u-turn when stopping in the village.
It creates a wonderful sense of isolation. If you’re looking for this level of seclusion its a great place to stay. There are fair few holiday rentals available in the village.
All of your food requirements can be met with a trip to the Jolly Fisherman, an apt name for a pub in a village with such close ties to fishing. The pub has over 165 years of history and serves some of the best seafood in Northumberland. That’s not to mention the luxurious accommodation and the stunning views available from the beer gardens.
Craster’s most famous export, Craster Kippers, can be found a stone’s throw from the Jolly Fisherman. You will smell the kippers before you see them. The smoke from the smokery drifts into the village like a constant reminder of their presence. It’s an aroma you only get on quiet corners of the British coast. The shop at L. Robson & Sons sells other Northumbrian fare so it’s worth venturing in, even if you aren’t looking for kippers.
Before leaving Craster take some time for a short walk around the harbour. This used to be the hub for fisherman, fuelling the village’s industry of catching herring and curing kippers. It also used to be used to export rock out of the village from a local quarry. Today, the small harbour is much quieter but you can still catch the odd boat nipping into and out of the harbour. Make sure you take some time to wander around and to see the quaint private gardens dotted around the edge of the harbour.
A Walk From Craster to Dunstanburgh – Thank You For Reading
Thank you for reading this post. I hope you are feeling enthusiastic about taking a walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle. It’s a great walk and definitely worth the effort. If you enjoyed reading this, you might enjoy reading some of my other posts. Take a look at these:
- Your Guide to the Best Castles in Northumberland
- A Night in the Tower Suites at Warwick Castle
- Amazing Things to see and do in Bamburgh
- A Newcastle City Break
- A Greyfriars Kirkyard Tour
- Farne Island Tours
